DIY Monthly- Air Conditioning Maintenance

We live in a time with disposable grade products and parts. Manufacturers use algorithms to determine what level of quality assurance will still guarantee profitability so nobody expects any appliance purchase to last twenty years or more. That doesn’t mean you can’t try to effectively extend the life of your equipment.

CONDENSER

Check  the condenser unit outside. It needs clearance for air to be drawn into the coils; heat to be transferred to that air, and room for that heated air to be exhausted up and away from the unit. So make sure foliage is not encroaching onto the perimeter of the machine. Try for at least two feet of clearance on the sides where the coils are visible. Is there heavy tree canopy near the top of the unit that may deflect the hot air back down and again into the condenser making it less efficient? Is there a roof overhang doing the same? Are dead leaves piling up around the base of the coils? Every square inch that gets obstructed is a loss of efficiency for your equipment. Is your area prone to fire ants? Sometimes they will build a nest around the base of the unit.

Using a typical pressure nozzle on your garden hose rinse down the exposed coils in a scraping motion from the top of the coil to the bottom. You should see dirty water oozing out of the bottom of the machine. Continue the rinse down until the water is clear.

USING CHEMICALS

There are many soaps and specialized chemicals that can speed up this process. But there are risks that come with them. There are coil cleaners that are very strong in acidity or alkalinity. Failing to completely rinse these products can lead to corrosion of your equipment. Some soaps and degreasers are amazing surfactants. They rapidly break the bonds holding grime to your equipment. But again there is risk if you have a coil coating. Some of these can destroy the coating that is extending the life of your condenser coils. A perfect example of this is Simple Green. It is a fantastic degreaser and surfactant. But, the coil coating product Heresite will not honor its warranty if you use it. So if you must use a chemical or soap use something simple and with a neutral pH. My personal preference is the orange PineSol. Its often not easy to find but I have had much success with it, and the scent is not overpowering to me. If you choose to use chemicals buy them from a reputable supply house not a big box store to ensure you are not getting a diluted version for the same cost while supporting small business.

DRAIN LINE

Check the end of the condensate drain where it discharges on the outside. If your air conditioning unit is running in the “Cool” mode you should have water dripping out. Is there a build up of algae, slime, plant material, or animal life? Anything can potentially clog that line and back up water into your home. Better installed units have a drain pan safety switch that will either shut off your compressor or the entire unit if water backs up do to a clog. Not all units do though. If your winter season keeps you from using your “Cool” setting for months, consider rubber banding a sandwich bag over the discharge or use a condom. This could prevent insects, frogs, or lizards from using the drain line as a winter shelter and creating a clog.

If you are going to attempt a routine to purge this drain line consider this. Shop Vacuums, compressed air, compressed nitrogen, and pressurized water can all be affective but there is a risk that pipe fittings in an area you cannot see may not be securely glued. So if you do purge the drain line be extra vigilant in the areas that the pipe runs from the evaporator to the exterior for the signs of leaks developing.

FILTRATION

Check your AC Filter/ or Filters. Do you have a return register filter? Multiple register filters? A filter at your evaporator coil? Do you have a UV Light Kit? Or other Ozone generating filter? You need to find out. Filters should be checked monthly but changed when the first signs of dirt are showing on the backside or machine side of the filter. Depending on the type of filter and occupancy of people and pets; filters will often need to be replaced between 30 and 90 days. The higher the filter is rated the shorter the frequency between changes. But you do need to have a filter in place. It needs to be correctly sized so air is not escaping around any portion of it. And please do not use those blue, super market grade, media filters that are paper thin. They are worthless. There is a reason it takes nearly a year for them to get dirty… They do not stop enough to justify their existence.

VENTS / RETURN GRILLS

Check your AC vent registers. Wipe them down with a swiffer or damp cloth. Be extra careful with your return grill. Often people spray paint these when they become unsightly. If this is the case you may scrape off the paint with the grime. If you are in an older home and the registers are uncoated metal. One time saving trick is to remove them and run them through the dish washer as needed.

  EVAPORATOR

In many homes the evaporator is not easily accessible for routine maintenance. If this is your situation consider if relocation is an option when you eventually replace it. If you can access it there are some things you can do. The connection of your condensate drain line to the evaporator should have a trap and clean out. Vacuum out the drain pipe from the clean out. Pour a cup of white vinegar into the drain pipe periodically to help discourage growth of the previously mentioned stuff that could lead to a clog. Wipe down the equipment. Dust build up encourages corrosion. Check for tares in the adjoining ductwork where air leakage may be happening. Repair small tares with 3M foil tape after cleaning the surface surrounding the tare. If present, check the emergency drain pan for any signs of water.

SERVICE CONTRACTS

Despite performing routine maintenance for optimum performance it is prudent to have your equipment covered with a service contract from a licensed and insured mechanical contractor. Preferably a company that performs Plumbing, Heating, and Cooling installation and service. Units should be inspected both at the start of the cooling season and at the start of the heating season. Refrigerant levels, operating temperatures, motor amperages should all be checked; loose connections and corrosion should be corrected; and the evaporative coil, drain pan, and drain line should be cleaned with the appropriate chemicals.

LINKS

For more helpful “HOW TO” tips and guides try

https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/maintaining-your-air-conditioner

https://www.wikihow.com/Main-Page